Allergy
‘Allergy’ is a term that is often misused to describe all kinds of adverse reactions. In fact, many consumers may have experienced some sort of sensory perception during hair colouring some time in the past, but only a very small number of these reactions are an allergy.
There are two main types of adverse reactions that may be experienced: irritant reactions and allergic reactions.
Irritant reactions are the most common adverse reactions and should not be confused with allergic reactions. An irritant type of reaction occurs rapidly following use of a product and does not involve the immune system. Redness of the skin, sometimes with stinging or itching, is characteristic of an irritant effect. This is limited to the site of contact and clears up rapidly after ceasing to use the product that is causing the problem.
Allergic reactions are excessive reactions by our bodies to substances in our environment that are harmless to the majority. Unlike irritant reactions, allergic reactions involve the body’s immune system. Allergies are a widespread issue today. Allergies can arise as a reaction to both natural and synthetic substances found in a person’s environment or food.
Allergic reactions cannot occur after a single exposure to an allergen: a second or multiple exposures are necessary. A person who is allergic to a substance is sensitised to it for the rest of their life. It is important to note that only a small proportion of the population is potentially allergic.
There are two common types of allergic reactions:
Millions of people all over the world use hair colorants without experiencing any unwanted effects. The number of severe allergic reactions to substances used in hair colorants is very small given the fact that they are used by millions of people every day. European figures show that the incidence of marked or severe allergic reaction to hair colorants is approximately three- five in every million units sold ∗.
∗ Krasteva, M., Bons, B., Tozer, S., Rich, K., Hoting, E., Hollenberg, D., Fuchs, A., Fautz, R. “Contact allergy to hair colouring products. The cosmetovigilance experience of 4 companies (2003-2006). Eur J Dermatol 2010; 20 (1): 85-95
A very small number of people may have an allergic reaction to the hair colorant they have used, for example they may get an itchy scalp or some redness on their head after colouring their hair. An even smaller number of people may have a more severe allergic reaction, which needs medical attention. This should not be confused with some mild irritant reactions which may be experienced after use of hair colouring products (itching, burning, stinging and sometimes redness of the scalp) which appear within minutes after hair dye application and disappear within hours.
A person who is allergic to a substance is very likely to be sensitised to it for the rest of their life and must avoid exposure even if the ingredient is in another product type or brand.
Where a higher risk of allergy has been identified, such as with some hair dyes, the product will always carry a warning label and users will be advised to carry out an Allergy Alert Test before applying the product in full.
Using the Allergy Alert Test as directed by the manufacturer in the product pack will help to alert you to any potential reaction on a small area before you apply the product to the whole head.
The Allergy Alert Test represents an important precaution and provides an indication that a reaction may occur if you go on to colour your hair. The Allergy Alert Test simply means checking whether you are likely to tolerate the hair colorant of choice on a small, discreet skin area.
Manufacturers advise performing an Allergy Alert Test before using permanent hair colorants. A positive reaction is a clear signal that your body may have been sensitised to a substance in that product. As indicated in the manufacturer’s instructions you must wait 48 hours for the body’s biological mechanism to work to see if you react to a test before you can go ahead and colour your hair. If you see redness, swelling or sensitivity (for example skin pricking) then do not use the product. Also do not pick another brand since that might contain the same ingredient which led to your reaction. See your doctor or dermatologist to investigate further.
This test represents an important precaution. However, be aware that even if an Allergy Alert Test has been carried out you may still experience an allergic reaction when you colour your hair. The Allergy Alert Test is not a guarantee of avoiding future allergic reactions. Please consult a doctor, if you have any doubts.
Waiting 48 hours for the test result can seem inconvenient but we are constrained by biology; the delayed contact allergy reaction may take up to 48 hours to develop. If you cut corners, you risk missing a positive reaction. The test recommended by the respective manufacturers is the best available, tailored to each of the many different products on the market. Independently reviewed research shows that the Allergy Alert Test is highly effective when carried out as instructed.
It is important to know that we can’t cut corners on timing. However there are other possible alternatives if you want to colour your hair quickly, such as hair mascaras or some temporary hair colorants. It is always important though with any hair colouring product to read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
If you have a reaction to the Allergy Alert Test (such as experiencing any stinging or burning and/or rash and/or swelling) do not go ahead and colour your hair, even with a product you may have used before. Contact the manufacturer (careline or helpline numbers are provided on the pack), the company will help you and your doctor organise diagnostic patch-testing with a dermatologist. This will identify which ingredient led to the reaction. You must not use any product containing that ingredient in future, even another manufacturer.
Consult a doctor or seek medical advice.
If you have any further questions, contact the manufacturer (careline or helpline numbers are provided on the pack).
Yes, you always should do the Allergy Alert Test. First, the hair colorant you are planning to use may feature a hair dye you haven’t used before. Secondly, and most importantly, allergies can develop over time and they can be also caused by other products, for example temporary "black henna" tattoos. Therefore, one should always carry out the Allergy Alert Test for reassurance.
Certain temporary henna tattoos, primarily the darker and black ones, can induce an allergy which can become evident the next time you colour your hair. Many of these temporary "black henna" tattoos have been shown to contain the same ingredients used, legally and safely, in hair colorants, but at much higher concentrations which remain on the skin for a long time. This is an illegal use of hair colouring ingredients. It is important to remember you can develop an allergy to a hair colorant at any time, even if you’ve never had any problems before.
A temporary "black henna" tattoo may increase your risk of having an allergic reaction when you colour your hair.
If you have had a "black henna" tattoo, then it is extremely important that you follow all of the manufacturer's instructions and perform the Allergy Alert Test 48 hours before colouring your hair. If you experience any reaction to the Allergy Alert Test, DO NOT go on to colour your hair. If you are in any doubt, consult a doctor or seek medical advice.
If you have experienced any reaction to temporary "black henna" tattoo in the past, DO NOT colour your hair.
Our industry is very concerned by the increasing popularity of so called temporary "black henna" tattoos. True henna extract is orange-red in colour. Temporary "black henna" tattoos are not only made up of henna, but are mixed with a substance called PPD (paraphenylene diamine). Whilst PPD is used safely in hair colorants, it is not allowed for use directly on the skin in the EU. However consumers may encounter certain so-called temporary “black henna“ tattoos at fairs and/or in holiday regions around the world. These temporary "black henna" tattoos which contain a high amount of PPD may also cause long-term damage by making your skin more susceptible to reactions when you use other safe products which contain PPD, such as hair colorants which are used throughout the European Union and the world.
Most hair colorants are labelled with instructions to carry out an Allergy Alert Test 48 hours before colouring the hair. Waiting 48 hours for the test result can seem inconvenient, but we are constrained by the body’s in-built response time; an allergic reaction takes up to 48 hours to develop. It is important to know that we can’t cut corners on timing; if you do, you risk missing a potential adverse reaction.
However, there are other possible alternatives if you want to colour your hair quickly, which don’t require the Allergy Alert Test. Available products include hair mascaras, coloured hair mousse and some temporary hair colorants. The instructions must always be read and followed carefully.
It is important to note that these products do not exclude the risk of allergy. If any hair colouring product says to perform an Allergy Alert Test then you must follow these directions and the timings closely.
While some experts have raised this question, we are not aware of any reports of someone being sensitised after performing the Allergy Alert Test (evidence of such an active sensitisation by a product would present itself as a reaction appearing at the contact site later than 10 days after application). Such reactions have not yet been reported in the scientific literature.
Safety
Colouring your hair when you are breastfeeding or pregnant is safe. The safety of the mother-to-be is an integral part of the hair colorant safety assessment. As always, it is really important to make sure you follow the product instructions and carry out the Allergy Alert Test as directed 48 hours before colouring your hair. Remember that, during pregnancy and breast feeding, the body may react differently.
Even though there are no safety concerns the colouring itself, we are aware that some women may still be concerned about colouring their hair at this time and they may choose to avoid the source of anxiety and not have their hair coloured at this time or talk to their physician.
A temporary "black henna" tattoo can increase your risk of having an allergic reaction when you colour your hair.
If you have had a temporary "black henna" tattoo, then it is extremely important that you follow all of the manufacturer’s instructions and perform the 48 hours before colouring your hair. If you experience any reaction to the Allergy Alert Test, DO NOT go on to colour your hair. If you are in any doubt, consult a doctor or seek medical advice.
If you have experienced any reaction to temporary "black henna" tattoo in the past, DO NOT colour your hair.
Our industry is very concerned by the increasing popularity of so called temporary "black henna" tattoos. True henna extract is orange-red in colour. Temporary "black henna" tattoos are not only made up of henna, but are mixed with a substance called PPD (paraphenylene diamine). Whilst PPD is used safely in hair colorants, it is not allowed for use directly on the skin in the EU. However consumers may encounter certain so-called temporary “black henna“ tattoos at fairs and/or in holiday regions around the world. These temporary "black henna" tattoos which contain a high amount of PPD may also cause long-term damage by making your skin more susceptible to reactions when you use other safe products which contain PPD, such as hair colorants which are used throughout the European Union and the world.
Hair colorants are not intended for use on children.
Because of some cases of improper and irresponsible use of hair colorants by children in the past, European regulators in close alignment with hair colorant manufacturers agreed to mandatory labelling which states that hair colorants are not intended for use on persons under the age of 16.
This is not because of concerns but regarding the ability of those 16 years of age to read, understand and follow the instructions carefully and to use the product responsibly, which is an integral part of colouring the hair (such as being mindful of the correct frequency of product use, identifying drastic colour changes, awareness of a potential adverse reaction, etc).
Yes. To prevent your palms/hands and your nails getting stained, always wear the gloves provided in the hair colorant pack. Use of gloves is also important to limit the hair colorant exposure to the skin and so minimise a potential risk of allergy.
Product performance
Do not use any hair colouring products if your hair has been coloured with henna, because it may be difficult to predict the resulting colour as well as affecting the condition of your hair. In this case, it is better to seek professional advice, by calling the manufacturer or enquireing at a professional salon.
Do not use any hair colouring products if your hair has been coloured with a product based on metal salts or metal dyes, because it may be difficult to predict the resulting colour as well as affecting the condition of your hair. On this occasion it is either better to call the manufacturer’s careline or to seek advice a professional salon.
The hair colorant pack and leaflet will provide advice on this, and it will also depend on the type of colouring product (permanent or temporary, etc). Normal frequency would be one colouring procedure every 4 to 6 weeks.
No. Hair colorants are intended for colouring the hair on the head and should not be used on other parts of the body. There are other products available specifically designed to colour eyelashes, eyebrows and the beard, which should always be used for these areas. These regions are often small, delicate and the colorant may be difficult to apply without the risk of the product leaking into the eyes, etc, which must be avoided.
Most hair colorants are labelled with instructions to carry out an Allergy Alert Test 48 hours before colouring the hair. Waiting 48 hours for the test result can seem inconvenient, but we are constrained by the body’s in-built response time; an allergic reaction takes up to 48 hours to develop. It is important to know that we can’t cut corners on timing; if you do, you risk missing a potential adverse reaction.
However there are other possible alternatives if you want to colour your hair quickly, which don’t require the Allergy Alert Test. Available products include hair mascaras, coloured hair mousse and some temporary hair colorants. The instructions must always be read and followed carefully.
It is important to note that these products do not exclude the risk of allergy. If any hair colouring product says to perform an Allergy Alert Test then you must follow these directions and the timings closely.
There are four main categories of hair colorants, depending on the duration of effect produced: temporary, semi-permanent, tone-on-tone / demi-permanent and permanent.
No, there is no need to stop using hair colorants; as long as you have not experienced any reactions to the hair colouring products and that you follow the product instructions and perform the Allergy Alert Test as directed, if instructed to do so, 48 hours before colouring the hair.
If you have experienced any reaction to a hair colouring product, then you should stop using all hair colorants and consult with a doctor or a dermatologist. You should also contact the manufacturer of the hair colorant to which you experienced a reaction.
No. Cancer concerns raised occasionally by single studies have been disproved. Leading scientific experts, including numerous world-renowned organisations, who have reviewed the science on hair colorants are confident they are safe to use as instructed. Professor Andreas Hensel at the German Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR), has stated: “There is no risk of cancer through use of hair dyes for consumers."
Read more about independent scientific expert research…
Safety is the number one priority for the cosmetics industry. Hair colorants are one of the most thoroughly studied consumer products on the market and their safety is supported by a wealth of scientific research. As with any other cosmetic product, hair colorants are subject to stringent European safety legislation (the EU Cosmetics Directive); this requires that they must be safe. Every new product must undergo a full safety assessment before it is allowed to be sold.
Manufacturers go further than is required by law to provide clear warnings and instructions.
The absence of a reaction to the industry-recommended Allergy Alert Test is no guarantee that an allergic reaction may not occur as a result of future hair colouring procedures. However, this test represents an important precaution. In case of doubt, seek medical advice.
Before using any hair colorant, you should always read the instruction leaflet carefully and follow all directions exactly. The leaflet contains important tips and suggestions, including answers to these questions.
If you have very thick or long hair (shoulder length or longer) you may consider using two packs of the same product in case you believe/think that the product volume is not enough.
It is not advisable to mix shades or two different products because it is difficult to predict the resulting colour. This is also usually the advice given in the product instruction leaflets, unless a specific brand provides guidance on this (this is normally only for products used by hairdressing professionals). Always read and follow any instructions carefully. You can also contact the individual companies; the manufacturer's address should be clearly stated on pack and many manufacturers have careline or helpline numbers or website addresses on their packs.
While not being an issue of safety, always keep exactly to the stated application time. The colouring process stops after the stated time and leaving it on the hair for longer may affect the hair colouring performance. The longer the hair is exposed to the hair colorant may have some impact on the natural hair structure and strength; so it is advisable to rinse after the recommended time.
The hair colouring reaction takes place over a known period of time. While not a safety concern, the colouring process may not be completed and the coverage and shade may not meet expectations if the product is rinsed off before the recommended time. One possible reason for rinsing the product before the recommended time is when you experience any kind of adverse reaction during colouring which may be evidence of a potential allergic reaction. In such cases rinse the product immediately.
No, this is normal and to be expected. The active hair dye ingredients begin to develop and create the desired colour over a period of time in the hair, during the oxidation process.
No. Once combined, the hair colorant mix cannot be used again later as the colouring reaction starts with the initial mixing and ends after a specific, given time.
The product pack and/or leaflet will provide guidance on how to dispose of any left over product.
Mix the two components of a hair colorant as directed and make sure that they are thoroughly blended.
However, any colourant remaining that has not been mixed with the developer can be used again afterwards. For example: after using a small amount for performing the Allergy Alert Test, the unmixed colourant can be kept in the re-sealed container and can still be used 48hrs later for the actual hair colouring procedure (if there has been no reaction to the Allergy Alert Test).
Please see advice given on-pack/in leaflets for removing any stain, although you may use a gentle shampoo to wash the colour the skin. To protect your forehead, hairline and nape colour splashes and staining, apply a liberal amount of petroleum jelly (for example Vaseline) or skin cream. If any colorant mixture does settle on the face, remove it as quickly as possible using a mild facial toner. If in doubt, contact the manufacturer’s care line. Many manufacturers have care line or help line numbers on their packs, or on their websites.
There are a number of reasons why the colour result may not be as you expected. The condition of your hair, the method that was used and also previous colour applications can all have an influence on your colour result. A professional salon can advise you.
No. There may be an alternative solution to quickly correct the colour. It is recommended that you visit a professional salon for guidance.
If the colour is more intense then you imagined:
If your hair seems too bright or vibrant then wash it immediately with shampoo and then nourish your hair with an intensive treatment or conditioner for about 30 minutes. The shampoo strips the fine keratin layer the hair and then works with the active ingredients in the treatment to draw colour pigment out of the shaft. The colour can then be softened by rinsing out some of the pigment.
If your new blonde tone has a red tinge:
Dark hair colours may naturally contain red colour pigment, so if this occurs seek professional advice.
If there a slightly green tone to the result:
In very rare cases, blondes can take on a tinge of green because of either impurities in the water such as copper, salts and chlorine or simply too much sun. The green tinge can be neutralised with the tiny red pigments found in shampoos for colour treated hair.
You can also contact the specific manufacturer for help; the manufacturer's address should be clearly stated on pack and many manufacturers have careline or helpline numbers on their packs, or on their websites. Or you can visit your professional hair salon for advice.
