Colour well

1. I’ve had a "black henna" temporary tattoo.

A temporary "black henna" tattoo may increase your risk of having an allergic reaction when you colour your hair.

If you have had a "black henna" tattoo, then it is extremely important that you follow all of the manufacturer's instructions and perform the Allergy Alert Test 48 hours before colouring your hair. If you experience any reaction to the Allergy Alert Test, DO NOT go on to colour your hair. If you are in any doubt, consult a doctor or seek medical advice.

If you have experienced any reaction to temporary “black henna” tattoo in the past, DO NOT colour your hair.

Our industry is very concerned by the increasing popularity of so called temporary “black henna” tattoos. True henna extract is orange-red in colour. Temporary “black henna” tattoos are not only made up of henna, but are mixed with a substance called PPD (paraphenylene diamine). Whilst PPD is used safely in hair colorants, it is not allowed for use directly on the skin in the EU. However consumers may encounter certain so-called temporary “black henna“ tattoos at fairs and/or in holiday regions around the world. These temporary “black henna” tattoos which contain a high amount of PPD may also cause long-term damage by making your skin more susceptible to reactions when you use other safe products which contain PPD, such as hair colorants (which are used throughout the European Union and the world).

2. What are the different colorant types?

There are three main categories of hair colorants, depending on the duration of effect produced: temporary, semi-permanent and permanent.

Permanent or oxidation hair colorants are easy to recognise. Normally the pack contains at least two components which have to be mixed together immediately prior to use. Oxidative hair colorants change the natural hair colour and give the hair – depending on the formulation – either “tone-on-tone” colour (also referred to as “demi-permanents”) or “permanent”, lasting colour.

Permanent colorants cannot be washed out and this is the more traditional way of permanently changing hair colour. They produce an effect that is resistant to washing and are chosen to provide long term colour changes, ranging a subtle to dramatic, as well as excellent coverage of “grey” hair.

The two components that are mixed consist usually of a tube that will contain the colorant precursors and an alkaline agent (the ‘colorant’) and a bottle that contains hydrogen peroxide (the ‘developer’).

• Tone-on-tone / demi-permanent hair colour
  Tone-on-tone colorants also include an oxidation step (for example, mixing with peroxide) but do not provide a marked lightening of the hair’s natural pigment. Tone-on-tones traditionally enhance or deepen the natural hair colour. The final colour is quite durable and will gradually wash out after approximately 28 shampoos.

• Semi-permanent hair colour
  Semi-permanent hair colorants are made of colorant molecules that are able to penetrate the hair. These products tend to be ready-to-use (no pre-mixing) and contain “direct” colorants. These colorants settle on and within the scales of the hair cuticle, becoming established around the cortex without modifying the hair’snatural internal colour. The colour gradually fades with washing and it normally stays in for up to 6-8 washes.

• Temporary hair colour
  Temporary hair colorants modify the colour of the hair temporarily and are readily removed by washing. These colorant molecules are unable to penetrate the hair fibre and settle on the hair surface. The combination of these molecules with the natural hair colour provides the new shade.

3. Can I colour my hair to go out tonight?

Most hair colorants are labelled with instructions to carry out an Allergy Alert Test 48 hours before colouring the hair. Waiting 48 hours for the test result can seem inconvenient, but we are constrained by the body’s in-built response time; an allergic reaction takes up to 48 hours to develop. It is important to know that we can’t cut corners on timing; if you do, you risk missing a potential adverse reaction.

However, there are other possible alternatives if you want to colour your hair quickly, which don’t require the Allergy Alert Test. Available products include hair mascaras, coloured hair mousse and some temporary hair colorants. The instructions must always be read and followed carefully.

It is important to note that these products do not exclude the risk of allergy. If any hair colouring product says to perform an Allergy Alert Test then you must follow these directions and the timings closely.

4. What's the Allergy Alert Test?

The Allergy Alert Test represents an important precaution and provides an indication that a reaction may occur if you go on to colour your hair. The Allergy Alert Test simply means checking whether you are likely to tolerate the hair colorant of choice on a small, discreet skin area.

Manufacturers advise performing an Allergy Alert Test before using permanent hair colorants. A positive reaction is a clear signal that your body may have been sensitised to a substance in that product. As indicated in the manufacturer’s instructions you must wait 48 hours for the body’s biological mechanism to work to see if you react to a test before you can go ahead and colour your hair. If you see redness, swelling or sensitivity (for example skin pricking) then do not use the product. Also do not pick another brand since that might contain the same ingredient which led to your reaction. See your doctor or dermatologist to investigate further.

This test represents an important precaution. However, be aware that even if an Allergy Alert Test has been carried out you may still experience an allergic reaction when you colour your hair. The Allergy Alert Test is not a guarantee of avoiding future allergic reactions. Please consult a doctor, if you have any doubts.

5. Do I need to buy two products -
one for the test and one to colour my hair?

No, you do not need to buy two products. You do not need to buy a second pack just for the purpose of the test.

The product will give you all the directions you need to perform the allergy alert test 48 hours ahead and how to use the remaining product to colour your hair if you do not react to the test.

The basic principle however is common: It is important to follow the instructions carefully and to do the test each time. Use a small amount of the hair colorant of choice at a small skin site 48hrs before the actual hair coloration. If you react to the skin sensitivity test, do not go ahead and colour your hair.

Different manufacturers may recommend slightly different ways of doing the test based on their experience with a particular method, but also because of varying product formulations, packaging and applications.

6. I'm not happy with my hair colour.

There are a number of reasons why the colour result may not be as you expected. The condition of your hair, the method that was used and also previous colour applications can all have an influence on your colour result. A professional salon can advise you.

7. Can I mix two products?

It is not advisable to mix shades or two different products because it is difficult to predict the resulting colour. This is also usually the advice given in the product instruction leaflets, unless a specific brand provides guidance on this (this is normally only for products used by hairdressing professionals). Always read and follow any instructions carefully. You can also contact the individual companies; the manufacturer's address should be clearly stated on pack and many manufacturers have careline or helpline numbers or website addresses on their packs.